How to Get Rid of Rats In the Attic - Rats are common nuisance animals, outnumbering humans in some shared locations. Few animals have learned how to adapt to living near people like rats have. These creatures know where food is kept, can learn when it is disposed of and where, and often demonstrate very little fear of man. In cities, rats live in hierarchies. If too many of the group passes away, the females will go into reproductive overdrive. Rats will breed all year long, and the rat population can double almost overnight. Signs of a rat infestation often include grease marks, large openings in the home, feces and urine, and scratching or chewing marks.
Poisoning
Your options for getting rid of rats begin with poisoning them. You can poison rats. There are plenty of chemicals on the market that work; however, you should consider the potential complication of poison before you put some out. Some poisons are as deadly to pets as they are to rodents. If a house pet consumes a poisoned rat, it is very possible that the pet will become ill or die. Poisoned animals don’t die immediately. Any ill rats will likely vanish into the walls of your home where the bodies will decompose, infiltrating your home with an unpleasant odor. If neither of those complications bothers you, consider the fact that a few poisoned rodents are quickly replaced by healthy, hungry ones. Rats are very adaptive and are quick learners. Poisons that have worked once may not work again.
Repellents
For whatever reason, there are a variety of valueless repellents on the market for nuisance animals and rats are no exceptions. The standard ultrasonic motion detectors are as worthless for rats as they are for all the other animals on the product label. There is no evidence that suggests ultrasonic noise negatively affects animals. They can hear it, yes, but it does not bother them. Predator statues and predator urine are other common avenues homeowners turn to. Rats are smart. They will not be deterred by a fake statue or by fox urine. If you’re considering one of the above devices, it probably means you’ve already tried mothballs and failed. The use of mothballs as a rodent repellent is a myth. The white substance is actually more dangerous to people and does virtually nothing to ward away a rat. It is also a myth that a cat will keep away rats. Rats are usually much larger than house mice, and the average cat will not wish to engage such a sizeable animal in battle. A hungry cat may go after a rat, but the outcome of the hunt is not always in favor of the feline.
Trapping
Successful removal of rats is done with lethal snap traps, but you must seal up your home prior to setting traps or more rats will move right in. Close up any and all holes in the exterior of your home. Rats are excellent chewers. The holes must be sealed with metal or the barrier will not hold. When your home is no longer able to be penetrated, it is time to set your traps. Trap location is just as important as sealing up your home. Rats will have established pathways, detectable by the feces and grease markings around them. Bait the traps (you need more than one!) with something the rat cannot remove quickly from the pressure trigger. Peanut butter, regular butter, or marshmallow fluff are all good options. Check the traps daily and remove any dead rats.
Repairs
Okay, now this is the ONLY THING THAT REALLY MATTERS - you must find all the entry points leading into your house. The holes that the rats are using to get into your house, walls, and attic. A gap as small as 3/4 inch will do, believe it or not. Check from ground to roof - all vents, roof lines, baseboards, etc. etc. Every last hole. Seal all areas shut with steel that rats can't chew through. Again, this is the only thing that matter at all when it comes to getting rid of rats in the attic.
Cleanup
When you’re confident the rat infestation is gone, it’s time to clean up the mess. Rat droppings and pheromones will attract more rats to your home. Thorough cleaning is a very important part of rat control and prevention. Cleaning up the rat waste is not the only cleaning that should be done. Rats are often drawn to a location because of a ready supply of food. Garbage should be stores in bags inside sealed, sturdy containers. Pet food, leftover food and indoor garbage should be picked up and appropriately stored. In areas severely affected by rat populations, dry goods in paper-based packaging should be stored in Tupperware or otherwise sealable containers.
Learn more about these other animals: raccoons in attic - rats in attic - mice in attic - possums in attic - bats in attic
Poisoning
Your options for getting rid of rats begin with poisoning them. You can poison rats. There are plenty of chemicals on the market that work; however, you should consider the potential complication of poison before you put some out. Some poisons are as deadly to pets as they are to rodents. If a house pet consumes a poisoned rat, it is very possible that the pet will become ill or die. Poisoned animals don’t die immediately. Any ill rats will likely vanish into the walls of your home where the bodies will decompose, infiltrating your home with an unpleasant odor. If neither of those complications bothers you, consider the fact that a few poisoned rodents are quickly replaced by healthy, hungry ones. Rats are very adaptive and are quick learners. Poisons that have worked once may not work again.
Repellents
For whatever reason, there are a variety of valueless repellents on the market for nuisance animals and rats are no exceptions. The standard ultrasonic motion detectors are as worthless for rats as they are for all the other animals on the product label. There is no evidence that suggests ultrasonic noise negatively affects animals. They can hear it, yes, but it does not bother them. Predator statues and predator urine are other common avenues homeowners turn to. Rats are smart. They will not be deterred by a fake statue or by fox urine. If you’re considering one of the above devices, it probably means you’ve already tried mothballs and failed. The use of mothballs as a rodent repellent is a myth. The white substance is actually more dangerous to people and does virtually nothing to ward away a rat. It is also a myth that a cat will keep away rats. Rats are usually much larger than house mice, and the average cat will not wish to engage such a sizeable animal in battle. A hungry cat may go after a rat, but the outcome of the hunt is not always in favor of the feline.
Trapping
Successful removal of rats is done with lethal snap traps, but you must seal up your home prior to setting traps or more rats will move right in. Close up any and all holes in the exterior of your home. Rats are excellent chewers. The holes must be sealed with metal or the barrier will not hold. When your home is no longer able to be penetrated, it is time to set your traps. Trap location is just as important as sealing up your home. Rats will have established pathways, detectable by the feces and grease markings around them. Bait the traps (you need more than one!) with something the rat cannot remove quickly from the pressure trigger. Peanut butter, regular butter, or marshmallow fluff are all good options. Check the traps daily and remove any dead rats.
Repairs
Okay, now this is the ONLY THING THAT REALLY MATTERS - you must find all the entry points leading into your house. The holes that the rats are using to get into your house, walls, and attic. A gap as small as 3/4 inch will do, believe it or not. Check from ground to roof - all vents, roof lines, baseboards, etc. etc. Every last hole. Seal all areas shut with steel that rats can't chew through. Again, this is the only thing that matter at all when it comes to getting rid of rats in the attic.
Cleanup
When you’re confident the rat infestation is gone, it’s time to clean up the mess. Rat droppings and pheromones will attract more rats to your home. Thorough cleaning is a very important part of rat control and prevention. Cleaning up the rat waste is not the only cleaning that should be done. Rats are often drawn to a location because of a ready supply of food. Garbage should be stores in bags inside sealed, sturdy containers. Pet food, leftover food and indoor garbage should be picked up and appropriately stored. In areas severely affected by rat populations, dry goods in paper-based packaging should be stored in Tupperware or otherwise sealable containers.
Learn more about these other animals: raccoons in attic - rats in attic - mice in attic - possums in attic - bats in attic